Tuesday, May 27, 2008

The structure starts to take shape...

Now that our logistical needs have been covered as far as housing goes, our project work begins...

Liz met with Andy's organization and talked with Teddy who was incredibly excited for us to arrive and start working...This is not something that we take for granted knowing that many NGO's run by Ethiopians are resistant to volunteers and would prefer money and resources. We are excited and grateful for this opportunity to work with our new partners.

The SIM (Serving in Mission) Team consists of 3 or 4 people (Betty, Ailer, and Hawi) but we will be working extensively with Meredith, an Addis Ababa University grad who already has 8 months of experience with the project. She is a staff member who has worked extensively with the support groups. In addition, we hope to engage her in every step of the process so she can continue our empowerment initiative after we have left. With her cultural knowledge, interest, and experience with the support groups we are excited to have her as part of our team.

Brian, is an American who has 3 months on the ground already and is now in charge of the male support groups. He is excited to help with the project because he sees the interest in harnessing these support groups into entrepreneurship incubators. Currently many of the groups are selling coffee but the supply is greater than the demand, so they rotate selling days. In addition, we will be working with 2 groups (one in Bole and one in Lideta) so we can compare some of the data and findings. Each group has already started a joint savings venture but the amounts vary greatly and historically have been used to front medical expenses, funeral services etc.

Next week is busy for Liz and John as they visit several homes, and one support group. Hopefully John will be able to make contact with some MFI's and NGO's that already provide business training, so that we can leverage their expertise to educate the beneficiaries and staff.

Once the team is all together, we'll be diving in with 4 support group visits/day to help assess which groups have the greatest potential and greatest desire to take part in a small business pilot. We still need to talk about how and if we are going to split up the team to not be single threaded in our efforts...but that remains unresolved until the team is all together.

Apparently rain is in the forecast so we have been encouraged to bring good rain gear...some extra flash drives...and as much energy as possible! I'm anxious to get going and get starte knowing that we will not be the same people once we return from this intensive, emotional, and intellectually challenging project. We are the ones who will set the course for this initiative, we will create the structure, map out deliverables, and try to make a difference. It's an important yet daunting task....

Monday, May 26, 2008

The Team finds a home away from home...

As promised our friend Liz has secured housing and a cell phone for us while in Addis Ababa...And from the description of our new home it's more beautiful and more than we could have imagined. Upon Liz's arrival and through friends of friends we are renting from a woman who works for the UN and is leaving for the summer. It's 5 minutes from public taxi access, and quick 20 minute walk to the commercial area of Bole. With 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, a kitchen, a garden, and a nice big hangout area- it sounds absolutely perfect. It's just good to know that we will have a wonderful home base...Liz, you never disappoint!!

In addition to finding fantastic housing, Liz has been busy. She's managed to meet up with some friends at Cherokee, an old friend from college, one of Elena's friends, and even made it to an ex-pat party. Judging from her e-mail typed at probably 700 words/minute punctuated with exclamation points and vague references to not being able to sleep due to her excitement- our friend Liz is outdoing herself :)... She's also collected some key pieces of information: Bring shower curtains, towels and a hairdryer.

John has arrived despite a long journey and with half the team safely getting settled I am counting down the days until I will join them. We'll miss Liz, because she'll be back in Durham just as we leave, but maybe we'll cross paths in the air!

The other half of the team prepares...This weekend we went to DC and at the Smithsonian Museum of African Art and amidst the extensive Tishman/Walt Disney Collection gathered some ideas of what types of handicrafts sell in the US, in addition we saw Kenyan coffee beans packaged with hopeful stories of the growers printed on the bags and the hamsters on the wheel started working overtime...Picked up a new book called 28 stories of AIDS in Africa by Stephanie Nolen, at only67 pages in it's already hearbreaking and powerful.

More updates to follow...

Feet down in Cairo

Well,

After many hours in transit, a lost bag, broken laptop screen and my first experience in a British style capsule hotel, I am here in Africa :-).

I went through a big long breath when I finally arrived, wondering what I am doing again and feeling very alone. Sometimes a hug from someone safe is valuable beyond symbols. Thank you to all those who offer me so much warmth and helped prepare me for this. The journey here felt like an Odessey and I have this deep feeling the Odessey is just beginning.

With love:

-John


PS - I took an expensive taxi trip to Kenan-Flagler during my layover in Raleigh and picked up my IBM laptop. Strangely I care less now that I am taking such an expensive laptop. My commitment level has continued to rise. Perhaps being surrounded by all these kind people is part of this change.

PSS - Thankfully they brought my bag to my hotel door early in the morning a few days later. They were very good - insisting on delivering the bag directly to me; asked me to inspect the bag; and, then had me sign for the goods. I relished in a shave and clean clothes. Next time I shall pack a few bare essentials into my carry-on to avoid looking like a scraggily American.

Thursday, May 22, 2008

Liz touches down...

Great news! The Liz has landed...one small step for the team, one giant leap for...well nevermind.

To no one's surprise Liz's first e-mail is enthusiastic and hopeful. Her tireless spirit is inspiring, and yet a little scary- 6AM walks? Contacts made on the airplane? Lunch with someone from Selam Village? A tour for potential housing? ALL ON DAY 1. We wish lots of luck to our Cherokee friends who have to keep up with her.
I think we are going to have to sprint off the airplane just to keep up her pace.

In other news John is responding to a long list of e-mails and weighing in on our initial approach in Addis...he's in Wisconsin with family and will stop in Cairo prior to heading to Ethiopia. We have decided to stay together as a team in the beginning before we split up to work with the beneficiaries. John is fine with not getting a translator until we arrive and will brave public transportation and life in Addis on his own. We hope his inner compass will guide him to an internet cafe so he can let us know that he has arrived safely. I suspect that he too will make friends on the airplane as one of the VERY FEW non-Ethiopians traveling to Addis Ababa.

Anxiously we weigh items and pack...I've managed to "hustle" a suitcase full of donated kids clothing, sporting equipment, and school supplies for any visits with AIDS orphans. TROSA has given me the pick of their warehouse for anything that I may need. In addition after scouring the internet I found books of North Carolina Postcards that might be good host/hostess gifts but it's hard to know what to take. To further complicate matters we are running up against stubborn airlines that are enforcing new luggage restrictions starting 6/1, just 7 days before we leave. I hope we can carry the supplies that Andy Warren asked us to, the gifts that we wanted to bring, and a couple of bare necessities.

With Liz already there, and so excited to be back, I can't wait to get there myself.

Wednesday, May 14, 2008

Never say goodbye....

It was a bittersweet day... the team convened at the NN/RGM home to watch "A walk to beautiful" a NOVA special that aired last night about a fistula hospital in Addis. We sat on the floor drawn into the story, quietly sniffling, and sipping our apricot smoothies. Afterwards in usual team style, we talked about the documentary, our thoughts on global warming, over population and the idea of "First World" vs "Third World". Needless to say if you could harness the energy in the room, we may not have to worry about going to war over oil. Our fearless Chief Tactical Officer Liz jetted out to attend a baby shower while the rest of us sat around researching, relaxing and testing out what it might be like sharing the same space in Addis Ababa as roommates.

Liz jetted back as quickly as she left and we headed out to dinner, cheap but satisfying Mexican food seemed most fitting. We talked about singing karaoke, John's many musical talents, and Ryan's desire to learn to play the harmonica. John stated that playing the harmonica was boring while Liz helpfully added that she had just witnessed a friends 2 year old mastering the instrument, and so it shouldn't be that hard for Ryan to pick up. :)

As always eventually the conversation headed back towards the project. We shared our excitement and fears about the upcoming trip to Addis Ababa, and discussed immunizations and other logistics. Overall the mood was upbeat but with an undercurrent of anxiety. How are we going to make a difference? How is life going to be there? Have we learned enough? Have we prepared enough? Are we going to be ready to grasp whatever opportunities come our way? The questions raced through the air, and yet we all knew that everything is as it should be. We are going with our skill sets intact, our minds open and a true desire to help. Maybe that's all we need.

And so the reality is this...John leaves on Saturday, Liz leaves next wednesday and we leave a week later. This will be the last time that the four of us meet before our Ethiopian journey begins. We hug eachother, knowing that it's not really goodbye, but feeling like in some ways it is. We are a rag tag group, from different towns, educations and upbringings, all united through random chance and a sense of purpose. Through our last 3 months of meetings, dozens of e-mails, and even this blog we have become friends, teammates and an odd little family. It's time for the next phase. Liz will stay in Durham as our remote teammate (and gentle compass), and we will be forging ahead. It's sad. It's exciting. It's scary. And we are finally ready....

Tuesday, May 13, 2008

Beneficiary Snapshot:

YM (We use initials to protect identities) has worked as an electrician, plumber, and carpenter (welding). Currently he’s working as a plumber. Y’s monthly income fluctuates throughout the year. It could be as much as $5 on a given day or $10 to $20/month. He currently has a bank account, but withdrew everything, but $0.01. Y has a family of seven and their monthly expenses, excluding food and shelter, average out to be about $30. Y spends whatever he has available and is not able to save. When he does not have enough money for his family he takes a loan to cover their expenses.

Y is interested in owning his own business some day. He claims to be good at welding and would like to have a welding business. A welding machine costs about $130, which he has. But he does not have other equipment needed for a welding business. Y estimates that a total startup cost for his business would be about $500. He believes that there is a large demand for such a business, but coming up with startup capital is a big problem. For example, he expects that he can charge about $60 birr just to fix a door so the loan could be repaid rather quickly. On a typical week, he believes his sales could range between $100 to $200, but there are a lot of expenses. Y estimates that the loan of $500 could be paid back within three to four months if his projections are correct. When asked if he has looked for loan opportunities, he replied that he has not because he heard from others that the loaning system is not good (repayment begins immediately). Y has done welding for a long time and is willing to train others to work with him.



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We share these stories to show some of the opportunities with beneficiaries.

Wednesday, May 7, 2008

Conflict Resolution: A field trip to Kenan Flagler

On Saturday after a nice lunch in Chapel Hill we made our way to the very brick (yet very beautiful) Kenan Flagler School of Business. Unlike Fuqua it felt small and intimate and we found a nice room to settle in for our 3 hour class on conflict resolution. I wasn't quite sure what to expect, but with an open mind and a commitment to making this project as successful as possible we navigated a new kind of terrain, the emotional.

Our teacher was Kevin, a friend of John's, another Kenan Flagler student and an incredibly calm and peaceful person. With his wife almost in labor, he took time out of his busy weekend to meet with us. For this we are grateful.

We talked about our natural responses to conflict in the past, in the present and what we'd like to be able to do in the future. It was time to think hard. Was I aggressive? passive? scared of conflict? Were my first reactions angry outbursts or a complete shut down? We charted our tendencies on the board and realized that whatever our natural instincts were, we all had the same goal- to handle conflict in a productive way.

Kevin shared an experience with us, where his team in Africa under extreme stress and pressure had a complete communication breakdown. As a result, tensions rose, misunderstandings multiplied, and the project was not as successful as it could it have been.

Among our project plans, reports, spreadsheets, and research we had overlooked one of the greatest threats to a successful project: the team dynamic. Not the once a week meeting with hugs and kisses to go around, but the dynamic on the ground, exhausted, and uncertain.

We discussed how to apologize, how to approach one another during a conflicted time, and ways that we could communicate effectively with one another without "stuffing emotions". Then we practiced. We looked eachother in the eye and apologized, maybe it was an apology to another person, but we gingerly walked through the steps amazed at the power of small words. We shared stories trying to bridge our histories, and learned more about one another.

The hours flew by, and exhausted and bleary eyed with information overload we dispersed feeling like we were about to change in a deep and meaningful way. I think we have just scratched the surface...

Friday, May 2, 2008

Staying Healthy.

Nothing like a routine visit to a travel clinic to scare the daylights out of you... It's enough to make you want to stay home and under the covers for the rest of eternity.

But we are not so easily deterred even with long descriptions of bugs that tunnel and reproduce in your liver...

Here are some of the medical tips we were given...

1. Get some of the Hep. B shots anyway. I think they said the first one helps 70% by itself.

2. Cipro is very good for traveler’s diarrhea and they felt we were guaranteed to get this. This is available by prescription only.

3. They recommend bug repellant with Deet over 30%. This reduces the effectiveness of sunscreen by 1/3, so they recommend broadband, high SPF sunscreen.

4. Stay out of all water, even wading. Some nasty bugs go through the skin and can stay dormant for awhile in our bodies.

5. Malarone is good stuff for anti-malarial drugs. This is the newest drug and comes with few, if any side affects. This one also will kill the bugs in your liver, whereas others must wait for the bugs to get out of the liver into the blood stream.

6. Bring a sterile syringe, hospitals often re-use syringes in other countries. Get a doctor to write a note, so they let this through the checkpoints.

7. The oral Thyphoid is cheaper and lasts longer, but must be completed 10 days prior to your visit. Take this over a one week period.

8. Permathrin is good stuff for spraying on clothes to keep the bugs off. They sold some under the label “Sawyer Premium – Insect repellent clothing.”

Our last gathering will be on May 14th to screen the recording of the NOVA program: Walk to Beautiful. It's a documentary about women as they receive treatment for fistulas, and gain their dignity and lives back.

With open minds we count down- in less than 3 weeks some members of the team will be boarding flights and starting their journey. We are excited, nervous, and absolutely as ready as we are going to be...

John Arrives!

Since John arrived, it has been very wonderful and also very busy! We have had many terrific conversations and adventures.

Liz was SO thrilled to see John when he walked off the plane -- she has met many friendly people during her stay in Addis, but there is no replacement for an old friend and teammate. And, a good long hug is always rejuvinating!

After leaving the airport around noon on Saturday, Liz and John enjoyed a lunch and then Marion, Liz's host, took them shopping for souvenirs (since it was Liz's last weekend day). This allowed the team to see the marketplace and the dynamics of negotiation. Thankfully Marion, a fluent Amharic speaker, was with them and they didn't pay the firenje price! John also seems to be honing his negotiation skills, as he later purchased an umbrella for half the asking price, on a rainy day nonetheless!

On Sunday Liz and John went to M's house where the team will be living and they received a very thorough orientation. They also enjoyed some great conversation about work, life in Addis, NGOs and politics. M is a very wise women and also generous to share her lovely home! That evening, Liz and John went to dinner at Cherokee house and it was great to connect with the volunteers there and to reconnect with JT. John initiated a thoughtful discussion about an impressionable moment in Addis -- so we were fortunate to hear and share initial stories from recently arrived volunteers.

On Monday, Liz and John woke early and moved to M's house before visiting Selam Technical College, along with Amon and JT. This was an inspiring outing, as we saw training in action and learned about the school's products, including various types of agricultural machines (grain threshers, etc.) and water pumps. It was also a "hands on" experience as the group was able to observe the foundry and also test out the functionality of each pump. Afterwards, the team visited the associated orphanage and school, which also contains a garden and restaurant on the premises. We had a delightful meal and then Liz and John took Habtamu, a wise taxi driver and guide, out for a coffee as a gesture of appreciation. In the evening, Liz organized a dinner for several of the friends and helpers who have made her stay so wonderful. Tomorrow Liz and John will have an orientation with SIM; they will talk further with the staff and meet some of the beneficiaries.